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The bottom line for this home
A well-built home with a metal roof and solid bones, carrying a handful of safety items that need prompt attention alongside normal maintenance for its age.
This home shows genuinely good structural condition — the crawlspace is dry, the foundation is solid, the roof is metal and long-lasting, and most interior systems are functioning. The inspector found several safety-level issues, most notably an uncapped gas line near the furnace and corroded gas connections in the crawlspace, that need professional attention before or immediately after move-in. Beyond those urgent items, the remaining findings are a mix of normal maintenance and deferred upkeep typical of a home of this age in the Pacific Northwest.

Property Details
Address
1234 Maple Lane, Seattle, WA
Inspection Date
2024-04-15
Foundation
Continuous concrete foundation with crawlspace
HVAC
Gas forced air (Trane brand, 25 years old at inspection)
Roof
Metal roof
How thorough was your inspection?
We grade the inspector's report quality — not your home's condition.
This inspector covered all major systems, used a helpful color-coded severity system, and identified a meaningful number of safety and maintenance issues. The report is narrative in style and captures locations of shutoffs, access panels, and circuit relationships — genuinely useful homeowner information. However, the report lacks photos integrated with findings (pages appear to be photo placeholders without captions tied to specific deficiencies), measurements are sparse, and some findings bleed across pages in ways that make them hard to follow. No radon, sewer scope, or mold testing was performed or recommended, which is worth noting for a Pacific Northwest home with a crawlspace.
See the full grade breakdown (scorecard + 24 notes)
How this report scored
- B+CoverageAll major systems covered; cooling system not addressed and no sewer scope recommended.
- BDepth & testingMoisture meter used in multiple locations; no thermal imaging or radon testing.
- CPhoto evidencePhotos present but not captioned or tied to specific findings in the narrative.
- A-SpecificityColor-coded severity system; locations of shutoffs and circuits clearly documented.
- C-DocumentationYear built, square footage, and inspector name missing; only license number 565 listed.
What This Inspector Did Well
- +Color-coded severity system makes findings easy to triage
- +Thorough documentation of shutoff valve locations, circuit relationships, and access points throughout the home
- +Identified multiple safety-level issues (uncapped gas line, deck not bolted, non-tempered glass, guardrail, garage door tension return failure)
- +Used moisture meter in multiple locations — added scientific weight to observations
- +Noted equipment age and average lifespan for major systems (furnace, water heater, roof)
- +Checked appliances for operability
- +Documented pest-related findings including bees, carpenter ants, and wood decay
What Could Have Been Better
- -Photos appear to be included but are not captioned or tied to specific findings in the narrative — makes it hard to match images to issues
- -Year built of the home is not documented
- -Square footage not documented
- -Inspector name is not stated — only license number 565
- -No sewer scope recommended despite age of home
- -No radon testing recommended despite disclaimer noting it was excluded
- -Pest inspection was performed by a separate inspector (Ron West) but no pest report findings are summarized in this document
- -Some findings split awkwardly across pages making them hard to follow
- -Cooling/AC system not mentioned — unclear if inspected or not present
Areas Worth a Second Look
- ?Uncapped gas line near furnace — requires licensed HVAC contractor or Puget Sound Energy immediately
- ?Corroded gas line connections in crawlspace — requires licensed contractor review
- ?Deck not bolted to house — structural/safety concern requiring licensed contractor evaluation
- ?Counter flashing improperly installed — requires licensed roofing contractor
- ?Non-tempered glass in hall bathroom windows — safety concern
- ?Garage door tension return failure — safety mechanism not functioning
- ?Furnace at 25 years (past average lifespan) — consider replacement planning
- ?Cooling system — not mentioned anywhere in report, confirm if home has AC
By Sample Home Inspections
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Your top priorities
If you only look at a few things, make it these — ranked by safety, urgency, and cost.
69 more in your full list below.
Your Home Maintenance Roadmap
Next 1–3 years$4,100–$14,45016 items
3–5 years out$6,950–$21,4006 items
5–10 years out$8,000–$25,5004 items
Safety concerns and items that need attention within the first 30 days. These are flagged based on safety risk, inspector urgency, and potential for cascading damage.
safety
4No Handrail at Exterior Steps — Safety Hazard
Installing a handrail at the exterior steps is a relatively quick and affordable fix that significantly reduces fall risk. This is a good item to have done before you move in, especially if you have children or elderly family members visiting. A contractor can install a proper handrail in a few hours.
Exterior handrail installation by a contractor typically runs $200–$600 depending on length and material.
Inspector recommended: Recommend installing handrail at exterior steps as a safety precaution.


Windows in Hall Bathroom May Not Be Tempered Glass — Safety Concern
Non-tempered glass in a bathroom presents a fall injury risk. A glass company can confirm whether the glass is tempered (sometimes the stamp is just hard to see) or replace the panes with code-compliant tempered glass if needed. Given the low cost and high safety value, this is worth resolving quickly.
If replacement is needed, tempered glass pane replacement is typically $150–$400 per window depending on size.
Inspector recommended: Noted — normally windows in this location should be tempered glass as a safety precaution.
West Garage Door Tension Safety Return Not Operating
The garage door safety reversal system is there to prevent the door from injuring people or pets. One of the two systems on the west door is not working. Most garage door openers have a force adjustment screw that can be adjusted without a service call — consult the opener manual. If adjustment doesn't resolve it, a garage door technician can fix it quickly and inexpensively.
Garage door opener adjustment is often DIY; if a service call is needed, typically $75–$200.
Inspector recommended: Strongly recommend adjustment.
Smoke Alarms and CO Detectors — Not Inspected Per Disclaimer
This home has a gas furnace, gas dryer, gas fireplace, and gas water heater — meaning CO detectors are especially important. Upon move-in, install CO detectors on every floor and near sleeping areas, and test or replace all smoke detectors. Washington State law requires smoke detectors in all homes at time of sale. Budget under $100 to be fully protected.
Combination smoke/CO detectors are $25–$60 each; a whole-home setup costs $100–$300.
Inspector recommended: Not inspected per disclaimer.
exterior
6Bees Entering Siding at East Side of Garage
Don't ignore this one — a colony inside a wall can grow significantly and becomes harder and more expensive to remove over time. Contact a licensed pest control company or beekeeper before or immediately after closing. The entry point in the siding will also need to be sealed after treatment to prevent recurrence.
Bee removal by a professional typically runs $100–$700 depending on colony size and accessibility; wall repair may add additional cost.
Inspector recommended: Investigate further and correct as required by licensed pest control company.


Decay to Decking Boards — Upper Deck (End Grain)
Decayed deck boards can fail underfoot, which is a fall hazard. The rotted boards need to be replaced by a deck contractor. While they're at it, it's worth having them look at the overall deck condition given the other deck-related issues found. Budget for this before you start using the deck.
Board-by-board deck repair is typically $50–$150 per board for materials and labor; a full deck board replacement runs more.
Inspector recommended: Repair decayed decking boards.


Decay to Decking Boards — Lower Deck Area
Rotted deck boards at the lower level present the same fall hazard as those on the upper deck. Have a deck contractor assess and replace all affected boards at both levels at the same time for efficiency. Don't use the decks for entertaining until repairs are made.
Combined with upper deck repair, a contractor can address both areas together, which is more cost-efficient.
Inspector recommended: Repair decayed decking boards.

Guardrail Not Secure — South of Sliding Glass Door
This is a genuine fall hazard. Do not use this portion of the deck until the guardrail has been properly secured by a licensed contractor. This is one of the items you should negotiate to have repaired before closing, or get a credit to repair it yourself immediately.
Guardrail repair by a deck contractor is typically $200–$800 depending on what hardware and connections need replacement.
Inspector recommended: Strongly recommend conditions be corrected.
Deck Not Bolted to House
A deck not properly secured to the house is one of the most serious deck deficiencies an inspector can find. Deck collapses have caused fatalities. Have a licensed contractor evaluate the deck connection and install proper ledger bolting. This is a repair to negotiate before closing or to do immediately upon possession — do not host gatherings on this deck until it is corrected.
Properly bolting a deck to the house ledger typically costs $500–$2,000 depending on access, deck size, and whether any framing needs correction.
Inspector recommended: Strongly recommend conditions be corrected.

Deck Steps Non-Uniform Height — Potential Trip Hazard
Uneven steps are a real trip hazard, especially for children, elderly visitors, or anyone carrying items. A deck contractor can correct the step heights when addressing the other deck repairs. This is a relatively straightforward fix if done as part of a larger deck repair project.
Step repair as part of a broader deck project is typically modest; standalone stair repair is $200–$600.
Inspector recommended: Strongly recommend conditions be corrected.
foundation
2Wood Decay at Base of Column/Support Post at Southeast Corner
This is a structural support element, so you want a contractor to look at it and confirm how extensive the decay is. If it's caught early, a decay-retarding treatment may stabilize it. If it's progressed further, the post base may need to be replaced and a proper moisture barrier installed. Get a contractor out to assess this before closing if possible.
Chemical treatment is inexpensive ($50–$200); post repair or partial replacement can range from $300–$1,500+ depending on extent.
Inspector recommended: Treat with decay-retarding chemical; install moisture barrier between concrete and post base.
Have a structural engineer take a closer look before deciding — Confirm whether the post can be treated or needs replacement before you negotiate repairs.

Corrosion at Gas Line Connections in Crawlspace
This is one of the most important findings in this report. Corroded gas line connections need to be inspected and corrected by a licensed professional — either Puget Sound Energy (who may do this inspection at no charge) or a licensed HVAC contractor. Do not delay on this item. It should be addressed before or immediately after closing, and ideally should be a condition of purchase.
PSE may inspect for free; repair cost depends on extent — could range from $200 to $1,500+ for connection replacement.
Inspector recommended: Strongly recommend conditions are investigated further by Puget Sound Energy or licensed HVAC contractor and corrected as required.
Have a licensed plumber or the gas utility take a closer look before deciding — Corroded gas connections should be assessed in person right away — a safety check before anything else.

electrical
2No Power to Outlet Under Deck
Ask the seller if there's a switch that controls this outlet. If not, have an electrician check it out before or soon after closing. Dead outdoor outlets can sometimes indicate a tripped GFCI somewhere in the circuit — check nearby GFCI outlets for a tripped button. If the cause can't be identified easily, a licensed electrician can trace the circuit.
If GFCI-related, often free to reset. If wiring fault, electrician diagnostic and repair is typically modest.
Inspector recommended: Consult with owner about whether outlet is switch-controlled; investigate if not.

Kitchen Outlets Within 6 Feet of Sink Not GFI Protected
GFCI outlets near water are a genuine safety upgrade worth doing quickly after you move in. An electrician can replace the relevant outlets with GFCI models in a few hours. This is an inexpensive fix that provides meaningful protection against electric shock in the kitchen. The inspector strongly recommended it.
GFCI outlet installation by an electrician typically runs $100–$250 for multiple outlets.
Inspector recommended: Strongly recommend GFI protecting the outlets within 6 feet of the sink as a safety precaution.
heating
1Uncapped Gas Line to Left of Furnace — Critical Safety Hazard
This is the most urgent safety finding in the entire report. An uncapped gas line must be addressed before you take possession of the home. Contact Puget Sound Energy immediately — they can come out and assess whether the line is pressurized and can shut off the supply. A licensed HVAC contractor or plumber must properly cap the line. Do not move into this home without confirming this has been corrected. This should be a condition of closing.
Capping a gas line typically costs $100–$400 for a licensed contractor — an inexpensive fix relative to the risk.
Inspector recommended: Strongly recommend capping gas line as a safety precaution.

fireplace
3Gas Fireplace Shutoff Location — Living Room
Know where your fireplace gas shutoff is: at the floor, to the left of the fireplace. If you ever smell gas near the fireplace, turn this valve off and call your gas company. The fireplace uses a match or lighter to ignite — there's no electronic ignition.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
Gas Fireplace Damper Clamped in Partly Open Position
Gas fireplaces are designed to have their dampers in a specific configuration to safely handle pilot gas and prevent accumulation. The current clamp setup should be verified by a licensed fireplace technician or your gas company to ensure it is correctly adjusted. This is worth doing before you use the fireplace.
Fireplace technician inspection and adjustment is typically $100–$250.
Inspector recommended: Recommend adjustment.

Extensive Creosote Buildup in Family Room Fireplace Flue
Do not use the family room fireplace until the flue has been professionally cleaned. Creosote buildup is the primary cause of chimney fires. A chimney sweep can clean and inspect the flue in a single visit for a modest cost. Once cleaned and inspected, you can enjoy the fireplace safely. Budget to have this done every 1–2 years going forward.
Professional chimney sweep cleaning is typically $150–$350 per fireplace.
Inspector recommended: Recommend cleaning before using — routine maintenance condition.

interior
2Shower Grout Absorbs Moisture — Master Bathroom
Sealing your shower grout is an easy weekend task — grout sealer is available at hardware stores for under $15 and takes about an hour to apply. Do this soon after moving in to protect the tile and the wall behind it. Reapply every 1–2 years.
DIY under $20; a tile professional can seal grout for $100–$300.
Inspector recommended: Recommend sealing.
Shower Grout Absorbs Moisture — Hall Bathroom; High Moisture Reading; Grout Voids
The 99.9% moisture reading at the grout/tub junction in the hall bath is the most significant grout finding in this report. You should dry out this area, repair the grout voids, and then seal. If the moisture is allowed to persist, it can lead to mold or tile substrate damage. A tile contractor can address this properly — it's not a hugely expensive fix but should be done soon.
Grout repair and sealing by a tile contractor is typically $150–$500 depending on the area involved.
Inspector recommended: Recommend areas be dried out and grout sealed.



Items to budget for and address within your first year. Planning ahead will save you money and prevent bigger problems later.
roof
1Counter Flashing Improperly Installed — Face of Siding and Chimney
Improperly installed flashing can lead to water getting into the walls or chimney over time — a problem that can be expensive once it causes damage. A licensed roofing contractor should re-install the counter flashing correctly. This is worth getting done in the first season, before the rainy Pacific Northwest weather does any damage. Get a quote from a roofing contractor.
Counter flashing re-installation by a licensed roofer typically costs $500–$1,500 depending on linear footage involved.
Inspector recommended: Strongly recommend conditions be corrected by licensed roofing contractor.


exterior
7Dirt and Foliage Too Close to Siding Base
You or a landscaper can pull soil back from the siding and trim plants away. This doesn't need to happen before you move in, but doing it in the first season protects your siding from long-term rot. It's an easy and inexpensive task that makes a real difference over time.
DIY task requiring only labor and possibly a shovel. If hiring landscaping help, minimal cost.
Inspector recommended: Achieve minimum 6-inch clearance between soil/foliage and siding base.
No Caulking Where Piping Routes Through North Side of Garage
A tube of exterior caulk or a can of spray foam is all you need for this repair. It takes about 15 minutes and helps keep pests and drafts out. Easy DIY fix for any new homeowner.
DIY fix for under $20 in materials.
Inspector recommended: Seal areas where piping routes through the siding.

Wood Decay at Window Casing Trim — South Dormer, Easternmost Window
Rotted window trim is more than cosmetic — it can let water into the wall. A carpenter or window contractor can remove the damaged trim, check what's underneath, and install new trim that is properly caulked and painted. Address this before the next rainy season to prevent the issue from spreading.
Window trim repair by a carpenter is typically $200–$600 per window depending on extent of damage.
Inspector recommended: Repair decayed window casing trim.

Carpenter Ants Foraging in Front Driveway Area
Carpenter ants are very common in the Seattle/Seattle area and their presence outdoors doesn't necessarily mean they're in the house. However, given the other decay findings, it's worth getting on a perimeter pest treatment program with a licensed company. Annual treatments typically cost $100–$300 per year and are good practice for any Pacific Northwest home.
Perimeter pest treatment programs typically run $100–$300/year for an ongoing contract.
Inspector recommended: Consider getting on a perimeter pest treatment program.

Decay to Railroad Tie Retaining Wall Under Deck
Railroad tie walls eventually decay and need replacement — this is expected and normal. The wall is under the deck and not currently causing visible problems, but plan to replace it within the next several years. Replacement options include new timber, concrete block, or composite materials.
Retaining wall replacement varies significantly by length and material: $1,000–$5,000+ for a modest wall.
Inspector recommended: Monitor; decay noted.

Slight Settling at Front Porch — Monitor
Minor settling at concrete porches is very common and usually remains stable for years without needing repair. Keep an eye on it — if cracks develop or the settling progresses noticeably, have a concrete contractor look at it. For now, the inspector just recommended monitoring.
If repair becomes needed, concrete leveling (mudjacking) typically costs $300–$1,000.
Inspector recommended: Recommend monitoring.
Concrete Floor Cracking in Garage
Minor concrete cracking in a garage floor is completely normal and not a structural concern. If the cracks bother you aesthetically or you want to prevent oil/water infiltration, a concrete crack filler from a hardware store can seal them. Otherwise, no action needed.
DIY concrete crack filler under $30; no professional repair needed based on inspector's assessment.
Inspector recommended: Does not appear unusual.
foundation
2Crawlspace Access Located in Entry Closet
Good to know: your crawlspace can be accessed through the entry closet. Any time you need a plumber, HVAC technician, or pest inspector to go under the house, this is where they'll start. Keep the area around the hatch accessible.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
Cardboard Forms Still Attached to Concrete Piers in Crawlspace
When someone is in the crawlspace for another job (gas line inspection, pest inspection, etc.), have them remove the cardboard form material from the piers. It's a simple task that eliminates a potential pest attractant. Shouldn't cost much as an add-on to another crawlspace visit.
Minimal cost — add-on to another crawlspace service call.
Inspector recommended: Recommend this material be removed as it is a conducive condition for wood destroying organism activity.
drainage
1Grade Slopes Toward House — South to North
This doesn't require immediate action since the crawlspace was dry, but over time water running toward the foundation can cause moisture issues. Adding soil along the north foundation to create outward slope, or ensuring downspouts discharge well away from the foundation, helps protect the crawlspace. A landscaper or you can address this.
DIY grading correction with topsoil is a modest project; professional grading work runs $500–$2,000 depending on scope.
Inspector recommended: Ideally first 6 feet should slope away from the foundation.
electrical
6Radiant Floor Heat in Master Bathroom on Same GFI Circuit as Outlets
Good to know: if your master bath radiant floor heat stops working, check the GFCI outlet in the hall bathroom first — they're on the same circuit. Resetting that GFCI may restore the floor heat. This is useful troubleshooting information.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
Hall Bathroom GFI Circuit Also Protects Master Bathroom Outlets and Radiant Floor Heat
If power goes out in the master bathroom outlets or floor heat, check the GFCI in the hall bathroom — that's what controls them. Press the reset button on that outlet and power should restore. This is important to know so you don't call an electrician unnecessarily.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
Bottom Outlets on North Wall of Master Bedroom Are Switch-Controlled
Good to know: the bottom outlets on the north bedroom wall are controlled by a wall switch. This is designed for lamps — plug your bedside lamp in there and you can turn it on/off from the switch without walking across the room. If something plugged into those outlets doesn't work, check the wall switch first.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
Half Bathroom GFI Outlet Also Protects Exterior Outlets
If your exterior outlets stop working — for holiday lights, a power tool, or anything else outdoors — check the GFCI in the half bathroom first. Press the reset button. This is your first troubleshooting step and often solves the problem instantly.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
Low Voltage Wiring on Crawlspace Floor — Not Secured
When you have someone in the crawlspace for any other work, have them secure the wiring to the floor joists with cable staples or hangers. This protects the wiring and makes the crawlspace neater and safer to navigate.
Minor task — materials cost under $20; can be done during any crawlspace visit.
Inspector recommended: Recommend securing to the base of the framing.


Electrical Panel — 200 Amp Service with Aluminum Service Entry Wires
Your home has 200-amp electrical service, which is a good modern capacity. The aluminum wires at the service entry are standard and not the same as problematic aluminum branch wiring. Your branch circuits (the wiring to outlets and fixtures) are copper, which is ideal.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
plumbing
11Exterior Faucet Leaks at Packing Nut — North Side
Try tightening the packing nut with an adjustable wrench first — this is often a five-minute fix. If the leak persists, a plumber can replace the packing or the entire faucet for a modest cost. This is a minor issue that shouldn't be a concern for your purchase decision.
DIY fix if just tightening; plumber repair if needed is typically $50–$150.
Inspector recommended: Generally tightening packing nut will remedy this condition.
Unknown Faucet/Piping at Northeast Corner — Possibly Irrigation Related
Ask the seller what this faucet and underground pipe serves. It could be an irrigation system shutoff, a former well connection, or something else entirely. Knowing what it does before you move in will help you manage it properly.
No repair cost anticipated until purpose is determined.
Inspector recommended: Recommend consulting with owner.
Right Sink Stopper Does Not Seal — Master Bathroom
This is a very minor fix — often just a matter of adjusting the rod linkage under the sink, which takes a few minutes. If adjustment doesn't work, a new stopper assembly costs under $20 at a hardware store.
DIY fix for under $20; plumber call if needed is under $100.
Inspector recommended: Minor adjustment would remedy this condition.

Access Panel and GFI for Jetted Tub Equipment — Located in Garage Attic
If your jetted tub ever stops working, head to the garage attic first — the GFCI protection for the tub motor is located there. A tripped GFCI is often the culprit when jetted tubs stop functioning. This is useful troubleshooting information to have.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.


Spigot Diverter Valve Leaks When Shower Is in Operation — Hall Bathroom
A leaking diverter is a minor annoyance — water trickles from the tub spout when you're trying to shower. A plumber can replace the diverter cartridge or tub spout relatively quickly and inexpensively. Not an emergency, but worth doing in the first year.
Plumber repair of diverter valve typically runs $100–$300 depending on fixture type.
Inspector recommended: Informational — leaking noted.
Access Panel for Hall Bathroom Tub Equipment — Right Side of Tub
If the hall bathroom tub or its jets stop working, check the access panel on the right side of the tub — the GFCI reset button is inside. This is your first troubleshooting step before calling a plumber.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.



Pressure Regulating Valve Located in Crawlspace
Your water pressure regulating valve is in the crawlspace. If you ever have unusually high or low water pressure throughout the house, this valve may need adjustment or replacement. A plumber will know exactly where to look.
No cost — informational. PRV replacement if ever needed runs $200–$500.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.

Main Water Shutoff Located Under Half Bathroom Counter
Know where your main water shutoff is before you need it: under the half bathroom counter. In a plumbing emergency, this is your first move. Make sure everyone in the household knows where it is and that it can be turned easily — test it soon after moving in.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
Water Heater — Rinnai Tankless Gas Unit, Age Approximately 10 Years
Your Rinnai tankless water heater is a quality brand at mid-life. Tankless water heaters benefit from annual descaling (especially in areas with hard water) and periodic filter cleaning. Budget for eventual replacement in 5–10 years, but no urgency now.
Informational — replacement when needed runs $1,500–$3,500 for a tankless unit installed.
Inspector recommended: Informational — age and lifespan noted.

Gas Shutoff for Water Heater Located Below Unit
Your water heater's gas shutoff is below the unit. If you ever smell gas near the water heater, turn this valve off and call your gas company or 911 if the smell is strong.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.

Water Lines Are Mainly Copper with Some CPVC and PEX
Your plumbing is in good shape material-wise. Copper pipes last 50+ years under normal conditions; PEX and CPVC are also durable modern materials. No concerns here.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
heating
6Hall Bathroom Thermostat Location — South Wall
The thermostat for the hall bathroom radiant floor heat is on the south wall of that bathroom. You can control the floor temperature from there — useful for those cold Pacific Northwest mornings.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
Furnace is 25 Years Old — Past Average Lifespan, Corrosion on Burners
Your furnace is running on borrowed time — at 25 years it has already outlived its expected 18–22 year lifespan. This doesn't mean it will fail tomorrow, but you should budget for replacement in the near term and not be surprised if it fails in the first couple of winters. Get it serviced annually and consider getting a replacement quote so you're not making a rushed decision in the cold. A new high-efficiency furnace will also lower your heating bills.
New gas furnace installation typically runs $3,000–$7,000 depending on size and efficiency rating.
Inspector recommended: Recommend furnace be serviced on an annual basis due to age.

Corrosion on Furnace Burners
Corroded burners in an old furnace are worth having a technician evaluate carefully. When burners corrode, it can sometimes affect the nearby heat exchanger — and a cracked heat exchanger is a carbon monoxide risk. Ask the HVAC technician to specifically inspect the heat exchanger when they service the unit.
Burner cleaning or replacement as part of a service call: $100–$300. Full heat exchanger evaluation included in service.
Inspector recommended: Servicing recommended; corrosion noted.


Furnace Gas Shutoff Located to Left of Furnace
Your furnace's gas shutoff is to the left of the furnace. If you ever smell gas near the furnace or need to shut it down for maintenance, this is where to go. Know it before you need it.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.

Furnace Filters Located Behind Upper Access Panel
Your furnace filter is behind the upper access panel. Check and replace it every 1–3 months — this is the single most impactful maintenance task for your heating system. A clean filter keeps the furnace running efficiently and extends its life. Filters are inexpensive ($5–$30 each).
Furnace filters cost $5–$30 each depending on type.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.

Gas Meter Located at Exterior West Side; Shutoffs Above and Below Meter
Know where your main gas shutoff is: on the west side of the house at the meter, with shutoffs above and below the meter. If you ever smell gas strongly or suspect a serious leak, use these to shut off all gas to the house, leave the home, and call the gas company or 911 from outside.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.


fireplace
1Moss Growth on Chimneys
Moss on your chimney is very common in this area and easily treated. A zinc strip at the chimney top, combined with a moss-killing solution, will address the existing growth and slow regrowth. This is a simple maintenance item — not a cause for concern.
Moss treatment products are inexpensive (under $50 DIY); professional chimney cleaning and moss treatment runs $150–$400.
Inspector recommended: Recommend moss be alleviated as it can cause spalling to occur to the brick.

attic
2Attic Access Locations — Garage and Master Bath Walk-In Closet
Good to know: you have two ways to access the attic — through the garage and through the master bath closet. If you ever need to check insulation, inspect for leaks after a storm, or access wiring, you'll know exactly where to go.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
Master Bathroom Attic Access Located in Closet
Your second attic access is in the master bath walk-in closet. Useful to know for future inspections, maintenance, or checking on roof conditions after major storms.
No cost — informational.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
interior
7Failed Window Seal — Upper Right Window, Entryway
A failed window seal shows up as fogging or a hazy look between the glass panes. The fix is to replace the insulated glass unit (IGU) — a glass company can usually do this without replacing the whole window frame. It's not an emergency, but it's worth fixing to restore energy efficiency and clear views.
IGU replacement by a glass company is typically $150–$400 per pane unit depending on size.
Inspector recommended: Recommend conditions be repaired by licensed glass company.

Den Entry Door Does Not Catch — Strike Plate Needs Adjustment
This is a simple fix you might be able to do yourself with a screwdriver and a file. If the strike plate just needs to be shifted slightly, it's a 20-minute DIY task. If you'd rather have a handyman do it, it's a quick job that costs very little.
DIY fix with basic tools; handyman cost under $100.
Inspector recommended: Minor adjustment to strike plate would remedy this condition.

Patching at Master Bathroom Ceiling in Shower Section
The moisture meter showed no current moisture issue — good news. The patching likely reflects a past leak that was fixed. Ask the seller what caused it and when it was repaired. If they can confirm the source was addressed, this is a non-issue.
No current repair needed based on inspection findings.
Inspector recommended: Moisture meter indicated no abnormal moisture content presently.
Master Bathroom Toilet Section Door Does Not Catch — Strike Plate
Same simple fix as the den door — minor strike plate adjustment that a handyman or DIYer can handle quickly. Not a concern for your purchase decision.
DIY fix with basic tools; handyman cost under $100.
Inspector recommended: Minor adjustment to strike plate would remedy this condition.

Caulking Voids at Flooring-to-Tub Junction — Hall Bathroom
Recaulking the joint between the floor tile and the tub is a simple DIY task or inexpensive handyman job. Silicone tub caulk costs a few dollars and takes about 30 minutes to apply. Do this soon after moving in to prevent water from getting under the floor.
DIY under $15; handyman cost $50–$150.
Inspector recommended: Recommend resealing.
Slight Cupping to Half Bathroom Wood Floor Near Toilet
Wood floor cupping near toilets usually means there was a past leak or splash moisture issue. Since the moisture meter showed no current problem, the issue appears resolved. Keep an eye on it — if the cupping worsens or you notice new moisture, have a plumber check for slow leaks under the toilet.
No current repair needed; if cupping worsens, floor repair or replacement could be $500–$2,000.
Inspector recommended: Moisture meter indicated no abnormal moisture content presently.

Tape Joint Peeling at Garage Ceiling
Peeling drywall tape is easy to fix — a handyman can apply new joint compound and tape in a short visit. Since garage ceilings often involve fire-rated drywall, it's worth keeping the ceiling in good repair. A quick and inexpensive fix.
Handyman drywall tape repair is typically $100–$300 depending on area.
Inspector recommended: Informational — peeling noted.
appliances
1Dryer is Gas Unit — No 240V Electrical Service Present
Your dryer is gas-powered, which is energy efficient. If you ever want to switch to an electric dryer in the future, you'd need an electrician to run a 240V circuit — but that's only relevant if you change appliances. For now, a gas dryer is perfectly fine.
No cost — informational. Future 240V circuit installation would cost $300–$800 if needed.
Inspector recommended: Informational note.
How Does Your Home Compare?
For a home in the Seattle/greater Seattle area, this property shows overall condition that is average to slightly above average relative to its age. The standout positives are the metal roof (an exceptionally durable surface with 40+ year lifespan that many homes of this era don't have), a dry crawlspace with vapor barrier in place, solid concrete foundation with no unusual settling, and mostly copper plumbing. Interior systems — appliances, bathrooms, bedrooms — are generally in good condition. A typical Pacific Northwest home of this age would be expected to have wood rot somewhere (and this home has it in a few places, which is normal), aging mechanical systems (the 25-year-old furnace fits this profile), and at least some deferred maintenance items, all of which are present here. The inspection did surface several issues that require prompt attention: the uncapped gas line and corroded crawlspace gas connections are the most urgent, followed by the deck deficiencies (not bolted to house, loose guardrail, decayed boards). These aren't common findings even for an older home, and they stand out in an otherwise solid picture. The counter flashing issue on the metal roof is also worth addressing before the Pacific Northwest rains test it further. What's genuinely encouraging about this home: the metal roof is a real asset — most comparable homes have asphalt shingles needing replacement every 20–25 years. The crawlspace was dry with a vapor barrier, the foundation is solid, and interior finishes are in good condition throughout. The kitchen is well-appointed with granite counters, the bathrooms have quality fixtures, and the home has radiant floor heat in both bathrooms — a real comfort feature. Once the safety items are addressed, this home has a strong foundation for years of enjoyment.
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