How to Read a Home Inspection Report: Section by Section

What a Home Inspection Report Actually Is (and Is Not)

A home inspection is a visual, non-invasive examination of a property's major systems and components. Most inspectors follow the Standards of Practice set by the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) or InterNACHI, sometimes supplemented by state-specific licensing standards.

Key things to understand upfront:

• It is not a pass/fail test. No house “fails” an inspection. The report documents the condition of the home at the time of inspection.
• It is not a code compliance check. Inspectors note safety concerns but do not enforce current building code on older homes. A 1955 bungalow will not be held to today's code.
• It is a snapshot in time. The inspector documents what they can see and access on the day of the inspection. They cannot see behind walls or predict the future.
• Every home has findings. Brand-new construction and a century-old Craftsman will both have items in the report. That is normal.

The Major Sections of an Inspection Report

While formats vary by inspector, most reports follow a similar structure. Here is what each section covers and what to focus on.

1. Roof and Exterior

The inspector will note the roof type, approximate age, and any signs of wear or damaged flashing. Asphalt (composition) shingles dominate nationally, but you will also see tile in the Southwest, metal in many regions, and wood or slate on older homes. Climate shapes what wears a roof out — sun and hail in the middle of the country, ice dams in cold climates, moss and constant moisture in wet ones.

What is normal: A few lifted shingle tabs, cosmetic wear on fascia boards, and in wet climates some minor moss — it is a matter of degree.

What is concerning: Active leaks, widespread moss that has lifted shingle edges, hail bruising, improper flashing around chimneys or skylights, multiple layers of roofing material, or a roof nearing end of life (25+ years for composition shingles).

2. Structure and Foundation

The inspector examines visible foundation walls, floor framing, and load-bearing elements. What sits under the house varies by region: full basements are common in the Midwest and Northeast, slab foundations in the South and Southwest, and crawlspaces across the South and West — with older homes sometimes on post-and-pier foundations.

What is normal: Hairline cracks in concrete (they happen as concrete cures), minor settling over decades, and cosmetic efflorescence (white mineral deposits) on basement walls.

What is concerning: Horizontal cracking in foundation walls, cracks wider than 1/4 inch, evidence of recent or ongoing movement, sagging floors, or modified load-bearing walls without proper engineering.

3. Plumbing

This section covers supply lines, drain lines, water heaters, and fixtures. Depending on the home's era, you may see a mix of pipe materials: galvanized steel (pre-1960s), copper (1960s-2000s), polybutylene (1980s-90s), or PEX (modern). The inspector will note what is visible and accessible.

What is normal: Minor fixture drips, a water heater in the second half of its lifespan, older but functional shut-off valves.

What is concerning: Galvanized drain lines (they corrode from the inside out), polybutylene supply lines (prone to failure), a water heater with no seismic strapping where your state requires it, or signs of sewer line problems like slow drains throughout the house.

4. Electrical

The electrical section covers the main service panel, wiring type, grounding, outlets, and safety devices. Many older homes have had partial electrical upgrades over the years, resulting in a mix of wiring types.

What is normal: A few ungrounded outlets in older homes, missing GFCI protection in a garage (easy fix), or a panel that is at capacity but functional.

What is concerning: Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels (known fire hazards), knob-and-tube wiring that is still active, double-tapped breakers, or aluminum branch wiring without proper connectors.

5. HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning)

Heating systems vary by region: forced-air gas furnaces dominate in much of the country, heat pumps are standard across the South and Southeast (and growing everywhere), and boilers with radiators are common in the Northeast. The inspector will note the system type, approximate age, and whether it is heating and cooling properly.

What is normal: A furnace or AC unit that is 10-15 years old, minor ductwork issues, or a lack of air conditioning in historically mild-summer regions.

What is concerning: A cracked heat exchanger (carbon monoxide risk), a furnace older than 25 years, no combustion air supply, or asbestos-wrapped ductwork in older homes.

6. Interior, Insulation, and Ventilation

This catch-all section covers interior finishes, insulation levels, attic ventilation, bathroom fans, and general moisture management. In damp and humid climates, ventilation is especially important.

What is normal: Insulation below current code levels in an older home, minor cosmetic cracks in drywall, some condensation on windows during cold months.

What is concerning: Mold or heavy staining in the attic, bathroom fans venting into the attic instead of outside, no vapor barrier in the crawlspace, or signs of past water damage that has not been addressed.

Understanding Severity: How to Prioritize Findings

Not every item in the report carries the same weight. Most inspectors categorize findings, but even if yours does not, here is a framework for thinking about what matters.

What to Do After You Read the Report

Once you have read through the report and categorized the findings, here is a practical action plan.

1. Make a short list of the big items. Pull out anything that is a safety hazard or a major system approaching end of life. This is what you will discuss with your agent.
2. Get cost estimates. For major items, get rough estimates from contractors. A new roof typically runs $8,000-$25,000 depending on size, material, and region. A sewer line replacement can be $5,000-$15,000+. These numbers help you negotiate with real data, not guesses.
3. Decide what to ask for. Especially in competitive markets, asking for every single item to be fixed is unrealistic. Focus your repair requests on safety hazards, major defects, and items that are expensive to defer.
4. Consider specialized inspections. If the general inspection flags potential issues with the sewer line, foundation, or roof, consider hiring a specialist. A sewer scope ($150-$400) can save you from a $15,000 surprise.
5. Build a maintenance plan. All those minor items? Turn them into a seasonal checklist. Every home needs regular gutter cleaning, exterior caulking, and climate-specific upkeep. Plan for it now and you will save money later.

Common Mistakes Buyers Make When Reading Inspection Reports

• Panicking over the length. A 50-page report does not mean the house is falling apart. Longer reports often mean a more thorough inspector. Focus on substance, not page count.
• Treating every finding as equal. A missing GFCI outlet and a cracked foundation wall are not in the same category. Use the priority framework above.
• Ignoring the report because the market is competitive. Even if you waive the inspection contingency (common in hot markets), you should still get an inspection for informational purposes. Knowledge is never wasted.
• Expecting a perfect house. Every home has something. That 1940s Tudor has charm precisely because it has been around for 80+ years. The question is not whether there are findings, but whether they are manageable.